Beth and Peter were given indication that Michigan Peace Team (MPT) might be needed to do protective accompaniment in the city of Nablus for ambulance drivers.  Nablus is an ancient city which dates back to an estimated 4,000 years ago. It is known to Christians as the city in the Gospels known as Shechem (Shekhem). This is where the story of the Samaritan woman meeting Jesus at the well is thought to have taken place.  He asked her for a drink, and then a conversation began between them which led many in the town to believe that he had answers to life.

In addition to its biblical history, Nablus has a more recent history of suffering from incursions, curfews and closures implemented by the Israeli army. It is a conservative area, and has been a stronghold of resistance since the second intifada (uprising against the Israeli occupation of Palestinian territory).  According to the United Nations, between the year 2000 (the beginning of the second intifada) and 2005 there have been eight large-scale military invasions, in which residents were under curfew for a total of 240 days.  The most devastating invasion was called operation “Defensive Shield” by the Israeli Military, and was in April of 2002.  The operation lasted 21 consecutive days, in which 67 Palestinians were killed and 160 injured.  Between April and November of 2002 the residents were under curfew for a total of 151 days.  The curfew was only lifted every few days for a total of 65 hours the entire eight month period. 

Incursions are still a problem today. When there are curfews, residents must remain in their homes. If they are seen on the streets, they are shot on site.  At times, the ambulances are also shot at or prevented by Israeli soldiers from going through checkpoints in the city to pick up or transport those wounded from Israeli soldiers’ attack. For these reasons we contacted the director of the Palestinian Medical Relief Society in Nablus, and he made arrangements for us to meet with a director of the Relief Society.

When we arrived in the center of Nablus by service (collective taxi), we were met by an ambulance driver who took us to the training center. The driver relayed to us the danger of being an ambulance driver. He himself was shot in the left leg and arm by Israeli soldiers. “My left leg is no good anymore,” he said. This man was about 35 years old.

We were greeted warmly at the training center by a medical director, we will call Ahmed. He explained their youth program work, and we were able to see children in group exercises designed to deal with psychological problems and trauma that they have suffered living in violence under occupation. Ahmed and his co-worker told us that there is need for such services in the outlying towns of the Nablus district, but that they do not have the resources for them.

It became clear that currently the large-scale military invasions are occasional, and that what is needed is a “rapid response” by peace groups to quickly bring teams into Nablus when these incursions begin. We concluded that MPT will not have a long-term team stationed in Nablus at this time, but perhaps join a rapid response team when we are able.

There are six checkpoints around Nablus city. On our way back to our home from Nablus, we were stopped at the infamous Huwwara checkpoint. Everyone must exit public transportation vehicles, go through the checkpoint, and get into other vehicles on the other side. We entered the “cattle barn” tin roof shed, and waited with 150-200 Palestinians at the gate. Some people in line said they had been waiting 2-3 hours. The summer sun is very hot. One young woman felt faint and her friends were fanning her, giving her water, and putting a wet kerchief on her face. We wondered how some older men and women could continuously stand in that crowd for hours.

One man told Peter that he is a businessman, and that some days it takes him less time to fly from Tel Aviv to Paris than to get from Nablus to Ramallah through the Huwwara checkpoint. (He is part of the small percentage of Palestinians that can even get in and out of the West Bank). He also said that he waits for hours, and then when he gets to the gate, the soldiers do not check his things, and tell him to hurry up and go through! “So making us wait is not about security; it is for harassment.”

Everyone we talked to said how miserable it was every day to go through this. One man, who was 50 years old, said it was for humiliation; there is no reason for the delay. There are also many college students who attend the large university of An Najah in Nablus, who have to travel through the checkpoint twice every day. Many of these students said they do not have time to study by the time they get home. We witnessed one girl studying for an exam the following day. It is hard to believe this is quality studying time though, with the overcrowding and hot weather.

Many urged us to go right through the check point outside the shelter, knowing we were obviously internationals with passports and did not have to wait. Beth would say to them, “Will you go with me?” To which they would reply, “We can’t.” She would say, “Then I want to stay here with you.” They found it hard to believe that we would not take the opportunity to pass quickly through, and expressed appreciation that we stayed there with them and experienced what life for them is like in Palestine.